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Ins & outs of Saint-Tropez

The weather is at its hottest, the marina is full of impressive yachts and beaches at Pampelonne are backed with movers and shakers. It’s another summer season in Saint-Tropez. My visit this time is more action-packed than usual as I spend the first week doing my SSI open water diver at Octopussy club (33.4.89.20.51.24, www.octopussy-plongee.com). Forever the adrenalin junkie, I just can’t sit around doing nothing so I get into early wake-up calls to go on a zodiac trip to a location to dive, often via a very bumpy ride in massive waves. There is plenty of marine life to explore, from bulging eyed octopus to merou. There’s also the option of lighthearted snorkeling experience for those not keen on relying on bottled oxygen.
I adore the azure blue sea and the variety of beach clubs on the miles long Pampelonne stretch. You can either do ‘the scene’ in full force - have Nikki Beach and Le Voile Rouge as your afternoon hangouts (be aware of the champagne showers, it seriously stings the eyes), dine at rather loud Villa Romana or L’Escale Joseph in the port front and then hit the dance floor of Les Caves des Roy or VIP Room. Alternatively you can do like me - a combination of the high action and low-key chilling on the beach like Key West – their lunch menu is quite good and you can sun on the beach beds to lounge music, and then on to Nikki Beach for a drink before they close.
If you a bit of a shopper buff like me you will like the local market at Place des Lices on Tuesday and Saturdays, where I shop for hand-made colorful beach bags and hats, designer copy rings, dried lavender and herbes du provencale mix. I also stock on St. Tropezienne sandals sold in several boutiques round the town and K Jacques sandals in their boutique on rue Gambetta. I drop in to the vintage boutique De l’une a l’autre (33.4.98.12.66.14) on rue Quaranta for second-hand designer finds. They have plenty of handbags by Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Mulberry, as well as hard-to-find vintage pieces by YSL, Valentino and Lacroix. My one-stop beauty shopping is at Pharmacie de la Mouton on rue Gèneral Allard for Soleil Noir multi-vitamin tanning oil (yes it’s an oil but the only sun protection that doesn’t let you burn), Hei Poa Monoi de Tahiti Nacres or body oil with gold flecks and same brand 2-in-1 shampoo & body wash and the new organic range by Nuxe, which I’ve only found here.   
Mood Gallery (33.4.94.96.02.27, www.moodsainttropez.com) on Place Celli near the post office is my art haunt for beautiful paintings of St Tropez in muted tones (I’m not a fan of the pastel colored versions sold in the marina) and one-off art pieces by resident artist Fulvio. He’s used to ship anywhere so you can easily arrange a painting to be sent directly to your home.

Where to stay: above Les Caves du Roy - Byblos**** (33.4.94.56.68.00, www.byblos.com), near the beach - Chauteau Hotel de la Messardière**** (33.4.94.56.76.00, www.messardiere.com), on Place des Lices - La Maison Blanche (33.4.94.97.52.66, www.hotellamaisonblanche.com); Thai style boutique hotel off Place des Lices - Pan Deï Palais (33.4.94.17.71.71, www.pandei.com), near the marina - La Mistralée (33.4.98.12.91.12, www.hotel-mistralee.com)

Beaches with restos: Le Club 55 (33.4.55.55.55), Key West (33.4.94.79.86.58), Maison Ocoa (34.4.94.79.89.80), Crystal (33.4.94.49.21.98)

For afternoon party: Nikki Beach (33.4.94.79.82.04), La Voile Rouge (34.94.79.84.34)

For an aperitif: Le Quai Joseph (33.4.94.97.04.07), Le Bar du Port, Regis

For dinner: any of Joseph restos – Le Grand (33.94.97.01.66), L’Escale (33.4.94.97.00.63),
For party: Les Caves du Roy (33.4.97.16.02), VIP Room (33.4.94.97.14.70) Polo watch:  Cote D’Azur Polo Cup (8-12 goals) 7-17 August,  Open du Soleil (8-12 goals) 21-31 August, Polo Silver Cup (12- 15 goals) 4-7 September, Polo Gold Cup (12-15 goals) 11-14 September (www.polo-st-tropez.com)

Yes! St tropez is so infamous now with parties, P Diddy, Club 55, celebs and pure decadence that we forget the richness of culture and history that the Cote and this little village provides us with - thanks Dia Fashionista for jogging our minds into something a little more memorable.