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Les Beaux Jours du Ramadan by The Polyglot

The Polyglot September 25th 2008

The City of Light doesn’t often conjure up images of Ramadan warmth and Eid festivities, especially in the last few years.  The social integration of France's Muslim population (the largest in Europe) remains a touchy subject, and yet, beyond the headlines, the city has embraced many aspects of the Middle East...

The Real Arab neighborhood:
To start off with, anyone who wants a real taste of the Arab world (and North Africa) in Paris, should head to the Goutte d'Or district, in the 18th Arrondissement. It’s not quite the 8th Arrondissement and its chic avenues but it has long been the heart of Arab Paris,  and by far the city's most colorful and multicultural neighborhood.

The New Museum:
On July 16th of this year, French president Nicholas Sarkozy, stood at the center of the Louvre's Cour Visconti, where he laid down the first stone for the museum’s new wing, devoted to Islamic art. Flanking Sarkozy that day were Prince Karim Aga Khan, Saudi Prince Al-Waleed bin Talal and his glamorous wife Princess Ameera Al-Saud. Prince Al-Waleed’s $20 million gift towards the construction of the new wing is arguably one of the largest private cultural donations made in France to date.

The Private Mansions and Fashion Shows:
Two years ago when the Mayor of Paris unloaded onto the market several sumptuous 18th century Hôtel Particuliers owned by the city, they were quickly snapped up prominent Saudi buyers. Ironically the fashion set seems to have benefited the most from these transactions, as several owners have lent out their historic mansions for fashion shows and other industry events. Prada staged its Fall 2007 Miu Miu show in the rarified surroundings of one mansion. While Camille Micelli, the accessories designer at Louis Vuitton, recently held a party to celebrate the launch of a new jewelry collection for the house, that was unveiled at a sumptuous Avenue Foch mansion owned by a wealthy Saudi Sheikh.

The Ongoing Exhibition:
Despite such recent events the Middle East has been contributing to Paris’ cultural scene for decades, with many Arab writers, artists and poets calling the city home. The Institut du Monde Arabe, currently showcasing a blockbuster exhibit devoted to Umm Kulthum, was completed some 20 years ago. Designed by the celebrated French architect Jean Nouvel, this stunning postmodern pastiche of Middle Eastern architectural details has become one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.  Not only a museum, the Arab Institute also houses a film center, cafe, library, bookstore and the Ziryab restaurant, whose views are amongst the best in Paris.

The "Shaabi" Market:
In addition, the Barbès market, held every Wednesday and Saturday morning under the elevated Métro tracks along the Boulevard de la Chapelle, has been the main shopping fare of the city’s Arab community for over 30 years.

What has evolved is the depth and range of cross-pollination taking place between France and its Arab neighbors; especially in what the French call l'art de vivre: fashion, home décor, dining, music, night life and even spa culture. Thanks to a new generation of similarly inspired designers, chefs, club owners and entrepreneurs (some European, some Arab, and some a mixture), these two cultures are mingling styles, blending aesthetics with increasing sophistication and shaping each others' sensibilities in a dazzling multitude of ways.

In the coming days The Polyglot will reveal a Paris that is both exotic and familiar. Whether you’re looking for a stylish iftar spot to break your fast, the best music venues to celebrate Eid, the sleekest designer caftans or the ultimate hammam-spa experience, we have all your needs covered.  So stay tuned!


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Hi The Polyglot!

I definitely agree about Institut Du Monde Arabe - when I was studying in Paris, I used to love to spend hours working in the library, watching the geometric shaped window shutters create different shadows depening on the movement of the sun. The bookstore was also a delight for browsing....

the other place i would mention the cafe in the inner courtyard at La  Mosque de Paris. It is lovely for a lovely afternoon Morroccan tea indoor or outdoor.